Forward cabin loose ends
Hours: 5.7 | Posted in Electrical, Gear & FairingsMore wrapup of loose ends in the cabin area, mostly dealing with the last of the electrical:
- Installed the DB-37 connector shell and hood for the ADS-B, and tied up that bundle.
- Installed the hood on the ARINC module connector.
- Soldered the 3.5mm jack on the ADS-B maintenance port connector, enlarged a tooling hole in the subpanel, and installed the jack there.
- Fabricated engine ground cables and installed between the firewall ground buss and the engine case.
- Measured for throttle and mixture control cables.
- Cut and installed the ducting between the vent scoops and the panel vents. (Need to get some screen mesh to put on the vent scoop end to prevent ingress of bugs.)
- Removed the parking brake cable from its mount, so that the mount could be removed and painted. Realized that the ball bearing fell out of the cable mechanism; spent some time searching for it in vain. (Hint to similarly troubled souls: ACS sells replacement balls for $2 apiece; a bag of 50 is under $5 at McMaster, and then you can lose it 49 more times.)
- Swapped out all the screws on DB connectors for thumbscrews…much easier to work with, especially upside down under the panel.
- Installed a snap bushing in the left subpanel rib for the pitot and AOA lines to pass through. Ran those lines up the left vertical FW stiffener and tied in place.
- Tidied and tied up the bundles of wire in the tunnel.
- Cut pieces of vinyl tubing to slip over the tubing in the tunnel for anti-chafing at tiedown points. With much contortion, tied up the fuel and brake lines in the tunnel. Still a couple to do, and one tiewrap base where the glue is obstructing the hole; it may be possible to open it up with some safety wire.
The day’s other task was attempting a redo of the nosewheel bearing. When I installed the wheel before hanging the engine, I noted that the rotation was quite stiff. I have the Matco axle which was supposedly designed in part to alleviate that problem. It’s very stiff…one theory was that I didn’t manage to properly grease the bearings (they are tricky to hand-pack with the molded rubber seal). So I bought a bearing packer cup, which did a fine job of packing it; grease squeezes out under the seal. Re-installed, and no change. If I tighten down the ring on the axle that’s supposed to set the preload (the instructions say to tighten it until the bearing face does not rotate with the wheel), the wheel requires what seems to me to be a lot of force to rotate. Given the discussion around the nosewheel issues, this doesn’t seem right. The bearing cones feel fine on inspection, too. Anyone out there with experience installing the Matco axle that can confirm or point out where I went wrong? For now, put it back together, knowing at least that it is well-lubricated.